Reliable Print -- Simple Construction with Common Materials

I was able to rotate the design and fit two on my Prusa i3 MK3 at one time.  Printing with the suggested print settings, I'm able to complete them at a rate of 7.5hrs for a two-item print.

Unable to find suitable, sewable elastic online or in local craft stores, I was able to purchase a box of 7" x 1/8" Non-Latex Rubber bands cheap (Box of ~250 about $5.50).

Working with standard packing tape to reinforce the top edge/screen holes but have purchased self-adhesive hole reinforcing labels which should be cleaner, easier and still provide as-good (or better) reinforcement of the material around the punched holes (Box of 1000 for $8.00).

NOTE on Transparent Sheets:  If possible, avoid the printable/coated sheets.  The coating has a texture and doesn't respond well to cleaning solvents.  The paper strip for feeding into the printer is a hassle.  As an added bonus, the "hand writable" sheets (for old school overhead projectors) are cheaper.

I had 10mm x 3mm EVA foam padding strips with one-sided adhesive on-hand from another project and it provides a good padding for the wearer's forehead.  Unable to source more of the same dimensions but could get rolls of 10mm x 1mm EVA foam padding that should still provide a stable and comfortable pad.  I cut the strips into 5" lengths and adhered them, centered on the forehead band.

Based on other comments on this model, I have included the bottom clip (~28min/clip) as an optional add-on.  It definitely provides extra rigidity to the transparency and clips on pretty well, but it still can fall off if brushed hard enough, which could be a serious problem during a medical procedure.

Category 
Printer Technology/Material 
Printer Make/Model 
Resolution (Layer Height) 
.30mm

Click to Enlarge - 8 image(s)

Rating 
No votes yet

Comments

  1. Inkjet/copier-printable transparency sheets have a coating to make it easier to hold the image.  This a) causes a glaze and b) the coating does not respond well to solvents.  If you can get uncoated/hand-writable sheets, they will be much better (and cheaper).
  2. The reinforcement labels are cleaner and simpler than the tape but can be a hassle to align with the punched holes.  I discovered a trick that greatly simplifies this:  If you have a binder hole punch (the flat ones you can store with a binder, see the photo above), place the sheet onto the hole punch (I still used the full-sized hole punch to make the holes because it works much better) and then place the labels over the prongs.  It aligns easily and quicly and is much, much simpler.
  3. I'm applying 2 reinforcement labels/hole (one on each side).  A little more time/effort but they're super cheap and should extend the life of each screen significantly.